Jewel setting



MarchZZ, 1932. M, 1A sCHLl-:ss

JEWEL S ETT ING Filed Aug. 4, 1930 wuwboz MAUR/CE d. SCHLES Y plementing the reflectingareas of thestone.-

i Ythe groove gives the e -'Patfmtedl Mar.'l 22,l 1932I MAURICE. J.. i scHLEss, 0F .NEW Yoan; N. Y.'y l

JEWEL SETTING' Y Application mea august, 4,?1930. sef1a1'no. -472,sei'.

This invention relates to settings yforjewels and otherfornamental stones.Y

' Th-e primary object of ythe invention is to provide a settingmwhich will expose the total i display yface of an ornamentalfstone or jewel to the fullest possible extent as distinguished, from present Settings which, inl many in- L stances, conceal a portion of lthe stone'or 'jewel-adjacent the Yedges thereof under the 0 metal platefin which the jewel is set. In aecordancevwith this aspect of the invention, the jewelisfdisposed withinwan aperture in yav plate, Vwhich is of adiameter greater than the diameter of the jewel; Y g f Y f A Another object of the invention is to prol:vide a setting `which will givethe Yappearance of containing a stone of'a larger size thanthat j actually contained "therein.. lAccordingly,v

f k'the jewelis' set within a. hole in a plate,'the

' "o diameteriofthe plate beingsomewhat greater tha'nthe diameter ofthe stone and vheads are lformed Vonathe plate having fcontinuations Y which overlie the'edgesof the stone to hold itin placeV and which heads givethe impres- 25 Sioniof prongsholding a larger stone `.Itv is also'an object of the invention to prof vide asetting whereof portions give the appearancefof being ,a part ofthe jewel,` thus making they jewel .ppear'larger thanit is. `Tothis end, surfaces Vareformed ont-he set- 'ting which lie in substantially the plane of, the facets of the j ewelthereby reflecting light to the'eye'at substantially the same angleas 'Y do the surfaces ofthe facets'. 7

:of supplementing the lustre ofthe jewel. In accordance with thisaspect oftheinvention, the heads :or pOngs aref formed with plane surfaceswhichfpresent reflecting areas sup- The invention alsov seeks to provide i aj ewel settingwherein the jewel appears to he of a more valuable' shape or cut than that actually l y"15iny the sett-inge y To this end, grooves are formed inthesurface of theplate having, an-V gular hottomswhereofthe dihedral edge ofyeffect ofjloeing the vedge of the stone.

"60 These" andfother 4objects'of the invention setting.Y

inthe settingujV A y a fragmentary sectional view ktaken alongline-, of1Figure 1v showing ci `ing `cut away portions 11,` forms the base or Still another object of tlieinvention is the y'provisionfofV reflecting areas for `rthe purpose Y andthe means for'their attainment will he moregapparent from lthe following detailed descrlption, taken; in connectionfwith the accompanying drawingsillustrating `one yiem- A bodi'mentby which the invention mayv be' realized,y and in which :4 l f i;

Figure 1 is a viewshowing, display face-0f a jewel mounted in ymy novel Figure 2 is a view, infplan, showing a plate l forrv a jewel setting constructed" according'to my invention.; l 'lV Figure 3 lis a sectionalview takenv on linee,y 3 3 of Figure land shows Figure 4 vis plan, the I taken l*along the line 4 4 of Figure l'but on i* alarger scale,and showing a `jewel with its f edge in spaced relation tothevsetting.

Figure` 5.is an' enlarged ysectional 'view details of thesecuringmeans for the jewel. Y

f Referring to Figures?) and 45 a substan tially rectangular hox-like member 10,hav-

Supportfor the jewel setting of this invenk tion andis well known to the trade.

YAsuperimposed c upon* the box 10 isa yplate f 12 made rofl any suitable metal for jev'velry settings( which plate 12, is provided withy van opening 13,' preferably'. centrally located,`,V l

which is tapered toconforr'n generally tothe shape ofY a jewel or other ornamentalfstone 14 to be mounted therein;k The opening 13 is cfa shaneto conform to that of the jewel14` but 'preferably slightly larger than the trans- A verse dimensions ofthe jewel except at spaced points'where ,Contact shoulders or abutments k15, Figure-2, are formed on the plate 12 upon which the anterior surfaceof the jewel rests insuchmanner `that the edge ofthe jewel-is maintained inspaced relation to thefedge of thel hole 13 in the plate 12 for the major por- -tion of its periphery.A The jewelVV is secured Y in'y position upon the shouldersl and in the. plate 12 overlapping ,beads 16 superimnosed upon 4portions `of the plate 12 adjacent to lthe Vshoulders 15 yand extending rearwardly to overlie the edge of the 4jewel and in Contact therewith; The heads' 16ers" secured to saidy Furthermore, these beads 16, since they extend inwardly from the corners of the plate 12, give the appearance of prongs holdmg a stone much larger .than is actually in the setting.

.In order to give the impression vto the eye of the observer that the stone 14 is of a greater diameter and of a more valuable shape, than it actually is, a 'groove 20, 21

(Figure 4) is formed in a definite manner upon the plate 12 at the sides .adjacent to the exposed edges of the jewel 14 and between beads 16. The metal of the plate 12 is cut to a kmaximum depth at the line 22 and surface is formed in substantially the plane including the edge 23 between adjacent facets 24, 25 of the jewel 14. The outer face 21 of the groove is so formed as to yprovde an edge 26 -on the surface of the plate 12 parallel to the outer edge 27 thereof. The edges 27 'and`26formthe margins of the surface 30, which connects fthe ledges 31 to form an even surface 30, y31, which', runningr the entire periphery of the platef12, appears as the square sides of .a box holding a square stone. The surface 20 joins. the surface 21 at the bottom of the groove ina straight line 22, which is .also parallel to the sides of the plate 12'. The surfaces20 form reflecting surfaces whereof the inner edges 34 lconform to the edges 35 of the stone and the surfaces 20 give the veffect of continuations of the facets of the stone by reflecting light therefromat substantially the same angle yas the facets. f The straight line 22 in the bottom of the groove 20, 21, Agives the keffect of .being the edge, of the stone, thus the effect is that "the stone is made to appear larger than it really is. The reflections from the surfaces 20 occurring at two spaced points at the edges of the plate 12 (which surfaces 20 kare in substantial continuation of the adjacent facets of the stone) merge with the reflec- V tion from the said facets` of the stoneand,

together with the reflection from the inclined surfaces 17 of the beads 16,present a 4display surface which is asubstantial square als-distinct from a round surface and this enlarged surface thus appearsof larger area f thanthe actual face of tlic'stone..

it can be formed to follow the contour of a square or rectangular stone or any shape known to the lapidarist art and in the case of a square stone, surfaces 20 cany be formed to continue the display surfaces of the stone without appearing to change the shape thereof. The plate 12 with the stone mounted therein may then be attached to the box in any well known manner, as by soldering and thus atlixed to the body of the article of jewelry which the stone is to ornament.

It will thus be seen that there is provided a new and useful setting or mounting for stones which firmly secure them without concealing the face of the stone where it is not clutched vand which, by a novel formation, has lustrous f surfaces which appear to be a part of the stone and which greatlyenhance the appearance there.

Various modifications will occur to those skilled in the yart in the composition, conliguration and disposition of the component elements going to make up the invention as a whole, ,as well as in the selection and combination of such component elements and no limitation is intended by the phraseology of the foregoing specification or illustrations in the accompanying drawings, except asy indicated in the appended claims` f What is `claimed iszc 1. Ina jewelry setting, means for-med with a receiving aperture for a jewel, spacing means to prevent contact between the major portion of the jewel and the inner surface of the aperture, jewel engaging means comprising inclined reflecting surfaces lying in planes substantially the same as the adjacent facets of thejewel, and'recessed reflecting surfaces adjacent the exposed edges of kthe jewel formed in the body of the setting.

2. In a jewelry setting, means formed with a jewel receiving aperture, spacing means to prevent contact between the major portion of the jewel and the edge of the aperture, and jewel engaging means lying in planes substantially the same as the adjacent facets of the jewel carried with the rst named means and extending from the outer marginal surface of said first named means.

3. In a jewelry setting, vmeans formed with c stantially the same as the adjacent facets of,

the-jewel carried with the first named means and over. the spacing means, and extending from the outer marginal surface of said first named means.

4.*A. jewelry setting for an ornamentall stone comprising a rectangular plate formed withan aperture to receive the stone', abutments thereon upon which the stone seats and means to engage the stone comprising a ralsed bead `formed withreilecting surfaces down-v l wardly inclined from a common edge forming y a projection of the common edge of the adja-'l ycent facets of themountedstone. j

y v 5. In a j ewelryjsetting, a rectangular plate.,

z'formed vwith an aperture toreceive a jewel,

raised shoulders therein against which a jewel seats, securing beads yadj acent the kshoulders and recessed reflecting surfaces adjacent the` edges of the aperture, saidsurfaces substantiall-y continuing the plane 'of proximate facets of the jewel. f Y

6. In a jewelry setting, a rectangular plate having a mounting aperture with seating abutments, securing vmeans adjacent the abutL ments, and recessed reiiecting surfaces adja,

cent to and spaced from the exposed edge of the stone following the ycontour thereof at'the o edge proximate the stone and terminating in a Groove parallel to the side of the plate. A jewelry setting comprising a `rectangular plate formed lwith'a jewel receiving aperture, ymeans to maintain theV Ajewelin spaced relation tothe walls of theaperture, beads carried with the surface ofthe yplate engaging lthe jewel,"` angular grooves formed inthe plate between the beads and parallel to the sides of the plate, the side of said 'groove adjacent the aperture lying iny a plane sub#y stantially the same as the plane of the proXi mate facets of the jewel. n

Y 8. In afjew'el setting, alplatevformed with f a jewel receiving aperture, means to main-v n tain the jewel in spaced relation to the walls of the aperture, jewel lengaging means carried with the plate andhaving'reflecting surfaces,

said plate being formed with angular grooves v between the said engaging means parallel to the sides of the plate','the sides of said grooves y adjacent the aperturelying in lplanes substann' 40 tially the same as the plane of the proximate o facetsy of the jewel. v In testimony whereof I aix my'signature.

, -MAURICE J SCFELESS.'` 

